Hey there, are you ready to embark on an adventure in Varanasi, India? As a photographer, this city is like a treasure trove filled with unique experiences and cultural wonders that you just can’t miss out on. From the crazy hustle and bustle of local street vendors to the serene Ghats, there’s so much to capture through your lens. Let’s dive into some of the highlights.

When I first arrived in Varanasi with my buddy Siva, I was hit by a sensory overload – so many sights, smells, and things going on around me that I felt like a deer in headlights. I mean, I couldn’t even take a photo for the first hour! I decided to explore the place and get my bearings before I found my groove to start capturing some amazing memories.

Varanasi, also known as Kashi, is a city located on the banks of the Ganges River in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history dating back to at least 1200 BCE. The city is considered to be a sacred place for Hindus, and attracts thousands of pilgrims every year.

The Ganges River, which flows through Varanasi, is one of the most important rivers in India. It is considered to be a holy river by Hindus, who believe that bathing in its waters can wash away sins and lead to spiritual purification. For this reason, Varanasi is often referred to as the “spiritual capital of India”.

When visiting Varanasi, it is common to see people gathering on the riverbank to wash their clothes. This is a daily activity for many locals, who believe that washing their clothes in the Ganges River will not only clean their clothes but also purify their souls. The sight of people washing clothes in the river is fascinating, as the river is bustling with activity at all times of the day.

Walking along the riverbank, the sight of people washing their clothes in the river is a constant reminder of the importance of the Ganges in the daily lives of the people of Varanasi. An experience to see how deeply connected the locals are to their river and their culture.

Now, the Ghats – these are the steps that lead down to the banks of the Ganges river, and they are a hotbed of activity in Varanasi. Here, you’ll see locals and visitors alike taking part in all kinds of rituals and activities throughout the day, from dipping into the holy river to performing religious ceremonies.

One of the most awe-inspiring rituals of them all – the Ganga Aarti ceremony, which takes place in the evening. It’s a fire ceremony performed by priests with bells, chanting, and the lighting of lamps – a truly beautiful and spiritual experience that will leave you speechless.

The Ganga Aarti is a Hindu ritual that takes place on the banks of the river Ganges, usually at sunrise and sunset. It is a highly revered ceremony, where priests offer prayers and light lamps to the river Ganges, considered to be the holiest river in India.

The Ganga Aarti ceremony is performed in many cities and towns along the river Ganges, including Haridwar, Varanasi, and Rishikesh. The ceremony is a beautiful and mesmerising spectacle, with hundreds of devotees and tourists gathering to witness the event.

During the Ganga Aarti ceremony, priests perform a series of rituals that involve the ringing of bells, the burning of incense, and the waving of lamps. They chant mantras and offer prayers to the river Ganges, asking for blessings and purification. The lamps are usually made of clay or metal, and they are filled with oil and a wick. The priests light the lamps and wave them in a circular motion, creating a mesmerizing pattern of light on the surface of the river.

The Ganga Aarti ceremony is a deeply spiritual experience, and it is believed to have the power to cleanse one’s soul and wash away sins. Many people believe that by participating in the ceremony, they can receive blessings and good karma. The ceremony is also seen as a way to pay homage to the river Ganges, which is considered to be a goddess in Hindu mythology.

The burning grounds in Varanasi, which are an intense yet fascinating experience. It is a significant cultural and spiritual practice for the locals who believe that their loved ones can achieve liberation from the cycle of rebirth. The cremation grounds, also known as the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, have been a longstanding tradition in the city, where around 200-300 cremations take place each day, fluctuating based on different factors.

While most bodies are cremated, exceptions include pregnant women, children under five, and holy men called sadhus. They are considered pure, and their bodies are wrapped in cloth and placed in the river as a sign of respect, where the river Ganges is considered sacred in Hinduism. By immersing the body in the river, it’s believed that the soul will be cleansed and liberated.

As a photographer, it’s important to approach the burning grounds with sensitivity and respect. You can witness the details of what’s being burned up close, usually a person who had a life and might be draped with jewelry. The family and mourners are present, and they request no photography. However, you can take photos from a distance if you want. It’s important to respect the customs and beliefs of the locals, as with any cultural practice. The burning grounds in Varanasi are a confronting yet significant experience that’s hard to describe unless you’ve seen it yourself.

Varanasi is a paradise for food lovers, offering a wide range of authentic and mouth-watering Indian snacks and drinks sold by local street vendors. To avoid getting sick, it’s recommended to bring your own water bottle or purchase bottled water. Once you have taken care of that, get ready to indulge in some seriously delicious food.

One of my fondest memories of Varanasi was enjoying a hot cup of chai from a nearby street vendor while sitting on the ghats at sunset, taking in the breathtaking views. In front of me, boats sailed up and down the river, while to my right, a body was being cremated on one of the burning grounds. Not to forget, the local children playing cricket in the square to my left; it was an extraordinary experience!

Varanasi is a vibrant and lively city, packed with surprises and unforgettable moments.

Local boatmen, known as “feriwalas,” are an essential part of life in Varanasi. Hire one, and don’t miss out on the Malviya Bridge upstream, where you can spot locals fishing for coins! It’s a chill spot that attracts both tourists and locals. You’ll see people trying their luck at catching some coins or tiny fish, so keep an eye out!

As a photographer, I don’t like going in groups with other photographers to shoot at popular spots. It’s just too chaotic when everyone’s trying to capture the same thing. You end up losing focus on what you’re trying to achieve. So when my friend Siva and I travel together, we often split up and meet back for lunch to compare notes.

One day, while I was rowing along the river taking pictures, I spotted another rowboat in the distance with another photographer. It turned out to be Siva, heading in the opposite direction. We smiled and waved at each other before continuing with our respective shots. It was nice to know that we were both able to capture the beauty of Varanasi in our own way.

While cruising back from seeing the bridge with my boatman, I was taking some random photographs when I spotted some crows sitting on something in the water. Initially, I thought it was a dead cow floating, with a few crows picking at it. I zoomed in with my 70-200 lens but couldn’t clearly see what they were picking at. However, as we got closer, I was able to zoom in more and realised it was a human body face down. I was quite shocked and thought about how I would react if I were on the River Torrens in Adelaide and saw a body floating in the river. It would be automatic panic mode, and I would call the police immediately! But in this place, the boatman simply looked and went about his business, calmly taking me back to the shore. ( Please note: I wont be publishing these photos on my website ). Instead enjoy a few of these photos from my walk across the bridge, including a funeral at the rivers edge.

In order to reach the market area across the river in Varanasi, you’ll need to take a boat ride with “feriwalas”. These boatmen will take you across the river to the Bengali Tola market area, where you can explore various interesting shops and stalls. I recently watched an episode of Todd Sampson’s Body Hack Season 2 where he explored the cannibals of Varanasi. Interestingly, he filmed some of the scenes on the river banks across the river from where I saw the body floating the day before. This really gives you a sense of what this place is like, so I highly recommend looking up the episode and watching it for yourself.

Varanasi is a city that is always buzzing with activity. Its streets are always crowded with people going about their daily business. In Varanasi, it is not uncommon to see people walking or cycling through the narrow streets with large sacks of produce balanced precariously on their heads. The city’s many markets are a hive of activity, and they are the perfect place to experience the hustle and bustle of daily life in Varanasi.

The main street in Varanasi is a bustling thoroughfare, and it is the perfect place to experience the city’s vibrant street life. Here, you will find vendors selling vegetables on the ground. These vendors sit on the ground with their produce spread out in front of them, and customers come and go, haggling over prices and selecting the freshest produce.

As the sun sets and darkness descends upon the city, the narrow alleys and lanes of Varanasi come alive with a vibrant energy. The shops lining the streets burst with activity, offering a range of goods and products, from clothing and jewelry to spices and sweets. The colorful array of lights and lanterns create a festive atmosphere that is unique to Varanasi.

Varanasi’s Sadhus are truly remarkable. These revered holy men are an integral part of the city’s rich cultural and spiritual heritage. Their saffron robes and tridents or staffs are a common sight throughout Varanasi, and they make for fascinating subjects for photography. You might even get the chance to interact with them and gain insight into their beliefs and practices. 

One of the most unforgettable experiences of my life was spending an evening at the gates of the city, sipping on chai, and basking in the orange glow of the sunset. Siva and I joined a group of guys, including a Sadhu who was smoking what I believe to be hash. We chatted and listened to a man playing a wooden flute nearby. I captured one of my all-time favourite photos during this moment. It was an experience that will stay with me forever.

Last but not least, Varanasi is also home to kushti wrestlers, who practice a traditional Indian sport that involves grappling and takedowns. You’ll find them practising in open-air arenas, and their discipline and strength are truly impressive. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a wrestling tournament or competition while you’re in town.

During our last morning in Varanasi, I made my way down to the ghats for one final glimpse of the sunrise. As I walked up the steps to head back to our accommodation to pack our bags, I heard the mesmerising sound of a didgeridoo being played in the distance. It was an unexpected and magical moment that left a lasting impression on me.

I can’t wait to go back and experience it all over again. If you’re interested, I would love to take you along and share this life-changing adventure with you. There’s so much to see and capture through your lens in Varanasi, India. So pack your camera and get ready for a journey you’ll never forget!

Exploring Varanasi, India: A Photographer’s Guide to Capturing the City’s Rich Culture and Unique Experiences

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Glenn Alderson

Photographer | Adelaide, Australia

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